December 13: A Hike to Remember
Departing Mendoza, we flew up to Bariloche to join Ramiro’s family who were anticipating our arrival. His sisters Fernanda and Tuki, their husbands Daniel and Eduardo, along with nieces and nephews, Florencia, Dario, Laura, Jose, Micaela, Max, Benicio, Lola, and Agustina.
Our first family activity was a hike, which began at the picturesque Bahía López Beach, nestled in the stunning Parque Municipal Llao Llao in San Carlos de Bariloche. Bariloche, founded in the early 20th century by European settlers, has grown from a modest mountain town to a thriving hub of tourism. The settlers brought with them alpine architectural styles that now define the town’s charming Swiss-like appearance, alongside traditions like chocolate making and winter sports. Today, Bariloche is renowned for its Swiss-style architecture, skiing, outdoor adventure, and famous chocolate shops. The park, Parque Municipal Llao Llao, is a breathtaking natural paradise, home to lush forests, crystal-clear lakes, and and majestic mountains that somehow remain unspoiled by human development. Summer visitors can explore scenic trails, kayak or canoe the tranquil waters of lakes. In previous visits Ramiro and I white water rafted the Manso River to the border with Chile.
The trail started at the far end of the beach and meandered through lush forest. An earthy scent of the pine trees mingled with crisp mountain air and the occasional whisper of rustling leaves guided us up the steep hills. The crunch of pine needles underfoot added to the tactile experience, while distant bird calls echoed through the forest. The trail led up to a rocky cliffside, where we paused to take in the breathtaking views of the Andes and the shimmering Nahuel Huapi Lake, its surface glimmering like a sapphire under the cloudless sky.
That night we enjoyed a hearty dinner back in Fernanda and Daniel’s cozy lodge, bathed in the glow of a full December moon, low in the southern hemisphere’s sky. The lodge, in the same complex Ramiro and I were staying, and only a block from Tuki and Eduardo’s house, provided a perfect setting for the evening’s feast. Eduardo made his famous Guiso de Lenteja (Argentinian Lentil and Chorizo Stew)—a hearty dish with smoky chorizo, tender lentils, and a blend of spices that filled the air with its rich, comforting aroma. The stew, served alongside golden, flaky empanadas bursting with savory fillings, paired perfectly with some Malbec wine, fresh from our Mendoza side trip.
December 14: Rally Car Race Day
Despite a late dinner the night before, the whole family awoke early to get a start on the day’s 12-hour rally car adventure. We set out early on the legendary Route 40, one of the longest highways in the world, stretching over 5,000 kilometers from the northern border of Argentina to the southern tip of Patagonia. Known for its stunning landscapes and challenging terrain, Route 40 runs parallel to the Andes, offering unparalleled views of snow-capped peaks, vast deserts, and glacial lakes. Skimming the shores of the vast Nahuel Huapi Lake, the drive felt like traversing a living postcard. A quick stop at an overlook above Lago Espejo in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi allowed us to soak in the serene beauty of the lake, a perfect pause before the thrill to come.
Leaving the smooth comfort of asphalt behind, we ventured onto Ruta Provincial 65, a rugged path steeped in history and adventure. This provincial route was originally carved out to connect remote mountain communities and is now a favorite for those seeking off-the-beaten-path explorations in Patagonia. Its steep climbs, sharp switchbacks, and stunning vistas make it a thrilling drive, reminiscent of a rally course. Driving along these wild and winding roads channeled my inner rally car driver! The destination: the pristine shores of Traful Lake. The icy 50-degree waters, fed by snowmelt from the towering Andes, offer a bracing dip for the brave. Above the lake, we enjoyed a classic Argentine picnic with Ramiro’s family between cold dips in the crystal clear water.
Our return journey via Ruta Provincial 63 was a testament to Patagonia’s diversity. This scenic route, known for its serene beauty and remote charm, is often dubbed a hidden gem of the region. One standout feature is its untouched tranquility; in the early summer you can drive for miles without encountering other people, making it feel like you have all of Patagonia to yourself. The starkly varying landscapes of Patagonia unfolded during our return drive.
Leaving Lake Traful’s snow-capped peaks, dazzling white against the blue sky, gave way to lush valleys carpeted with emerald-green forrest, nourished by the snowmelt of the Traful River. As we continued our descent, the cool, crisp air of the highlands was replaced by dry, warm breezes. Views transformed magically, seemingly instantly, to dramatic high desert landscape, where towering red and ochre cliffs rose above verdant river-fed oases, creating a striking contrast that left us spellbound. Patagonia’s ever-changing vistas left us in awe. If I could have stopped the car at every turn and taken a thousand pictures, it still would not do it justice.
Starkly Varying Landscapes of Bariloche Region of Patagonia
December 15: Celebrations at Piedra Habsburgo
To celebrate Daniel’s birthday, we embarked on a hike to Piedra Habsburgo. This iconic rock formation, whose name nods to the Habsburg dynasty due to its resemblance to an imperial crown, is a lesser-known gem of the region. The trail rewarded us with panoramic views that seemed like a scene from a postcard, encompassing the rugged peaks of the Andes and the shimmering expanse of Nahuel Huapi Lake. A slight delay—misplacing our car—added an unexpected jog at the end, but it only added to the adventure.
After the hike, we gathered at Max and Micaela’s house for an asado, a cherished Argentine tradition. Asados are more than just backyard barbecues—they are celebrations of family, friendship, and culture. The asador, or grill master, meticulously prepares fires using different types of wood to cultivate the perfect flavors. Often, multiple grills are used to prepare the fires and cook different types of meat, ensuring every cut is given the care and flavor it deserves. The aroma of sizzling beef and sausages—considered a vegetable in Argentina—filled the air as the family shared stories and laughter, embracing the time-honored tradition.
Despite the full day, everyone rallied for a late dinner in town to continue the birthday celebrations. Bariloche’s streets, adorned with Christmas lights, invited us for a midnight stroll, the festive decorations casting a warm glow over the cool night
December 16: Farewell to Bariloche
Our last day in Bariloche was spent soaking up the sun on the shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake. Spanning nearly 557 square kilometers, Nahuel Huapi Lake is the centerpiece of Argentina’s oldest national park, created in 1934. This glacial lake, formed during the last ice age, is renowned for its deep, crystal-clear waters and the surrounding jagged peaks of the Andes. Legend has it that the lake is home to “Nahuelito,” a mysterious creature akin to the Loch Ness Monster, sparking the imagination of locals and visitors alike. The crystal-clear waters and dramatic mountain backdrop made for a perfect send-off. As we prepared for the next leg of our adventure in Córdoba, we reflected on the unforgettable experiences that made this Patagonian escapade so special.
Bariloche, with its blend of rugged landscapes, warm hospitality, and thrilling adventures, truly captured our hearts. Until next time, Patagonia!
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