Imagine Tokyo
Imagine roughly the population of New York, Los Angeles, and Chicago—41 million people—living in one city. There are no sprawling cul-de-sac neighborhoods of single-family homes; instead, a vertical marvel of urban density stretching as far as the eye can see. This is Tokyo, a city like no other, thriving amidst Japan’s unique, mountainous geographical constraints, where vast portions of the country’s land is uninhabitable. Japan is made up of dense forest and mountainous terrain covering 70 percent of the country. The wild terrain funnels population growth towards Tokyo, creating a dense, bustling metropolis filled with innovation, culture, and a surprising sense of order.
Tokyo’s story is one of resilience and evolution. Originally a small fishing village named Edo, the city became the political center of Japan in 1603 under Tokugawa Ieyasu, establishing the Tokugawa shogunate. By the late 19th century, it was renamed Tokyo, meaning “Eastern Capital,” as Emperor Meiji moved his residence here. Today, Tokyo is the largest metropolitan area in the world, a dazzling fusion of ancient tradition and futuristic innovation.
Did you know Tokyo is home to more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other city in the world? Or that it’s one of the safest megacities, boasting incredibly low crime rates despite its massive population? And while it’s packed with towering skyscrapers, parks like Yoyogi and Ueno offer serene green spaces where you can forget you’re in one of the busiest cities on the planet. It’s a city of extremes, from the peaceful, meditative atmosphere of Senso-ji Temple to the neon-soaked chaos of Shibuya Crossing. Tokyo’s contrasts are as striking as they are captivating.
A Hotel Fit for an Emperor
Ramiro, Mick, and I all arrived separately. Mick from Melbourne, Ramiro and I on separate flights due to work—Stetson hats off to Air Canada whose business class service through Toronto was amazing. Mick arrived first, early in the morning and navigated to the hotel via transport. I arrived later that evening and, tired and lazy from the overnight flight, jumped into an uber at Haneda, heading straight for the Tokyo Hilton. The city’s size and reputation for non-stop activity had me expecting chaos, but I was greeted by surprisingly light traffic and a calm efficiency that Tokyo wears like a badge of honor. The Hilton set the tone for the stay: an upgrade to a king suite was surprisingly spacious for any city’s standards, let alone Tokyo, which is more known for tight accommodations. From the space to enjoy morning yoga in the room, a modern and well-stocked fitness center, to relaxing at the rooftop pool deck, the hotel offered an oasis amid the city’s energy.
Getting Around
The Tokyo subway system might initially look intimidating, with its maze of interconnecting lines, but it’s a masterpiece of precision and user-friendliness. Japan’s love of order is on full display here. Every element is numbered: station entrances, platforms, tracks, and even train cars. Coupled with bilingual signage in Japanese and Western alphabets, navigating the system is so intuitive that even first-time visitors can master it quickly.
Smartphone navigation apps further simplify the subway’s experience. Apple Map directions like “Walk to platform 7, track 2, board car number 6 to arrive closest to exit 17” ensure you’re never lost. The system’s efficiency is remarkable, and its cleanliness is unmatched. Even the subway tracks gleam, free of debris or dirt, making Tokyo’s subway experience an attraction in itself. You can really feel the pride the workers take in keeping this city spotless.
A City of Cleanliness and Order
You would think that a city of 41 million people would be crowded and dirty. You would be wrong. While busy, there weren’t any parts of Tokyo that felt crowded. Other than a few lines for restaurants that exceeded six hours, it doesn’t feel overwhelming like Times Square can feel in December.
Tokyo redefines urban cleanliness. Not only are the streets spotless, but even the subway stations—including the tracks—are polished to a mirrored shine. This cleanliness extends to every corner of the city. The level of care and pride taken in maintaining public spaces is unlike anything you’ll find in the West. Tokyo’s cleanliness stems from a deep cultural respect for public spaces and a concept called “omotenashi”—the spirit of selfless hospitality. This is why you’ll rarely find public trash cans; residents and visitors alike take their trash home with them.
A Foodie’s Paradise
Tokyo’s culinary scene is a journey in itself. From traditional ramen shops to the freshest sushi, every meal is a masterpiece. Here are some highlights:
Ramen Adventures
Our first attempt at ordering ramen was comically challenging. At traditional ramen shops, you use vending machines to place your order. Resembling vintage 1970s cigarette machines, these devices are loaded with buttons, levers, and sometimes confusing pictures. After some trial and error—and the help of a kind stranger—we realized you first insert yen, then select your dish. The machine dispenses a ticket, which you present to the staff before taking your seat. The reward? Handmade noodles, meticulously prepared broths, and sublime toppings that elevate ramen to an art form.
Ramen, though a staple of Japanese cuisine today, originally came from China and was adapted over the centuries to suit Japanese tastes. Tokyo-style ramen is particularly famous for its soy-based broth and slightly curly noodles. Ramen shops in Tokyo often have unique, secret recipes passed down through generations, making each shop’s bowl a distinct culinary experience. The vending machine ordering system, now a hallmark of the ramen experience, was introduced to streamline service in the post-war era and has become an iconic part of ramen culture. My recommendation: shove in some yen, randomly yank levers and push buttons until paper comes out, sit at the ramen bar, and enjoy. Whatever the kitchen serves up will be amazing.
Nishishinjuku Food Alley
This lively food alley became a favorite spot, so much so that we visited three times. The concept is simple: grilled food on sticks, each stick a different color representing its price. You pay based on the number of sticks you accumulate. From skewered meats to seasonal vegetables, every bite was a delightful surprise.
Nishishinjuku Food Alley, also known as Omoide Yokocho (“Memory Lane”), has a rich post-war history. Originally a black market area, it transformed into a thriving hub of tiny eateries serving affordable food to workers and locals. Today, it retains its nostalgic charm with narrow streets lined by small restaurants, many of which have been family-run for generations. The alley is not just a foodie destination but also a cultural time capsule, preserving Tokyo’s mid-20th-century atmosphere. Many shops don’t have English menus and be prepared with cash. The cramped interiors might feel strange at first, but the opportunity to enjoy meals shoulder to shoulder with locals is an experience you won’t soon forget.
Sushi at Tsukiji Fish Market
Somehow I imagined every corner of Tokyo filled with sushi restaurants, like Starbucks in New York. I was wrong. Sushi is a hyper-regional food found only next to water and fish markets. Sure, there are a handful of sushi restaurants tucked into tourist hotels in central Tokyo, but true sushi lovers must venture to neighborhoods near Tokyo’s harbors, such as the famed Tsukiji Fish Market to experience the world’s freshest and best. The sushi here is unparalleled, with fish so fresh it practically melts in your mouth.
Tsukiji’s history as a fish market dates back to the Edo period when it was established to supply seafood to Edo Castle, creating a deep connection between Tokyo’s history and its culinary traditions. The Tsukiji Fish Market, once the largest wholesale fish market in the world, operated from 1935 until its relocation to Toyosu Market in 2018. Despite the relocation, the outer market area of Tsukiji remains a bustling hub for sushi lovers and seafood enthusiasts. Vendors offer a variety of fresh seafood, from uni (sea urchin) to toro (fatty tuna), alongside traditional knives and cooking tools.
A Happy Pancake
Known for its famously fluffy pancakes, A Happy Pancake is an experience that is worth the wait—literally. Our first attempt to join the waitlist stretched to an astounding six hours. We gave up and tried much earlier the next day with success. Why the long lines for pancakes? Well, they exist because of the famous quality and care: each pancake is made to order with the world’s finest ingredients, including premium eggs from local farms, Manuka honey from New Zealand, and aged fermented butter from Hokkaido. These pancakes are baked without any chemical additives, relying solely on natural ingredients and meticulous techniques to achieve their signature fluffiness.
A Happy Pancake’s process is so unique that it takes about 20 minutes to bake each individual pancake. Yes, that’s right, each pancake. The pancakes are served fresh and paired with a variety of toppings for a wholesome snack. Happy Pancake’s dedication to quality means they limit the number of servings each day to ensure every customer receives the best possible experience. Chefs work in ann open kitchen adding to the experience, sweet aromas filling the air.
The café’s popularity highlights the Japanese appreciation for perfection in even the simplest dishes. A Happy Pancake has expanded to other parts of Japan, but the original Tokyo location remains a must-visit for food enthusiasts. The charm of A Happy Pancake goes beyond the food—it’s the entire experience, from the cozy atmosphere to the care in presentation. The process of creating each pancake is an art form, and the result is a culinary masterpiece that leaves a lasting impression on every guest.
Local Dining Adventures
Don’t be afraid to wander into any local restaurant in Tokyo. Though almost none have any support for foreign languages, they often have pictures on the menu. I recommend pointing to something that looks amazing and enjoying whatever comes out.
At one point, we stumbled into a restaurant with no English menus or staff who spoke anything but Japanese. Pointing at a random picture on the menu, we let the kitchen surprise us. The result was an unforgettable meal that highlighted the artistry of Japanese cuisine. When I accidentally left my bag at the table, the staff actually kept the table vacant until we returned to retrieve it. Even touching the forgotten article to put the valuable table back in rotation was taboo in a civilization that has no concept of crime—a testament to their hospitality and integrity.
Hidden Gems: Bar Juniso
Tucked away on a quiet street in Nishi-Shinjuku, Bar Juniso was a revelation. This small whiskey bar, with seating for just 20 people, exudes an intimate and exclusive vibe. Its hidden entrance made it feel like a speakeasy, and Mick and I walked past it several times before finally spotting it. The bar’s whiskey selection is astounding, featuring over 300 varieties, including rare Japanese labels. Seasonal fruit cocktails and Cuban cigars added to the allure, making this a must-visit spot.
The bar came highly recommended by the hotel concierge. I’m not a whiskey drinker, so I was hesitant at first. However, the concierge explained that the term “whiskey bar” is synonymous with “cocktail bar” in Tokyo, and there were plenty of other drinks on the menu. With that reassurance, we gave it a try and were thrilled by the diverse offerings and the inviting atmosphere.
Must Visit Landmarks and Unique Experiences
Senso-ji Temple
Located in Asakusa, Senso-ji Temple is Tokyo’s oldest and most iconic Buddhist temple, dating back to 628 AD. According to legend, two fishermen discovered a statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy, in the Sumida River. This sacred artifact became the temple’s centerpiece, and the site has drawn pilgrims and tourists for centuries. Dominating the entrance is the Kaminarimon, or “Thunder Gate,” with its massive red lantern symbolizing thunderclouds. Beyond it lies Nakamise-dori, a vibrant shopping street offering traditional sweets, souvenirs, and cultural artifacts. The five-story pagoda and the main hall, rebuilt after WWII, showcase stunning traditional architecture and offer a serene retreat amidst the bustling city.
Senso-ji is the most visited religious site in the world, attracting over 30 million visitors annually. The surrounding Asakusa district maintains an old-town feel, making it a favorite spot for rickshaw rides and kimono rentals.
The Imperial Palace
The Imperial Palace, located in the Chiyoda district, is the primary residence of the Emperor of Japan. Built on the site of the former Edo Castle, the palace’s grounds offer a glimpse into Japan’s feudal past. The East Gardens are open to the public and provide a peaceful escape from the city, with moats, stone walls, and traditional landscaping.
While the palace itself is closed to the public except on special occasions, such as the Emperor’s Birthday and New Year’s Day, the guided tours of the East Gardens allow visitors to explore this historical site. The gardens are particularly stunning during cherry blossom season, attracting both locals and tourists seeking breathtaking views of blooming sakura trees. Outside of cherry blossom season, you probably want to give this stop a pass. It is a natural garden, more like the center of Central Park in New York, if you have visited famous Japanese gardens in cities like Portland or Sydney and are expecting exotic plants in ornate patterns, this will feel a bit bare and disappoint.
Art Aquarium Ginza
The Art Aquarium Museum Ginza is a mesmerizing blend of art and nature, showcasing thousands of goldfish in intricately designed aquariums. These goldfish, known as “Kingyo” in Japanese, have been a symbol of good luck and prosperity in Japanese culture since the 16th century. The museum’s displays are not just aquariums but living works of art, where light, water, and seasonal motifs come together to create an enchanting visual experience. The dynamic lighting changes throughout the day, offering visitors a constantly evolving perspective on the exhibits.
The Art Aquarium’s founder, Hidetomo Kimura, spent over a decade perfecting the concept, which has gained international recognition through temporary exhibits worldwide. The Ginza location represents the culmination of his vision, turning the humble goldfish into a celebrated art form.
Visitors can walk through themed areas, each designed to evoke a different aspect of Japanese tradition, such as cherry blossoms or autumn leaves. Some of the highlights include massive cylindrical tanks filled with cascading goldfish and interactive displays where light projections mimic natural phenomena. This museum not only highlights the cultural significance of goldfish but also incorporates modern design and technology to create a truly immersive experience.
A Tale of Three Cities … Well, City Views at Least
Each of Tokyo’s observation decks offer unique views of this sprawling metropolis, I recommend visiting all three.
Tokyo Tower was constructed in 1958 as a symbol of Japan’s post-war recovery. Standing at 333 meters, it was inspired by Paris’s Eiffel Tower but is slightly taller. Tokyo Tower’s height was deliberately set to exceed the Eiffel Tower, showcasing Japan’s determination to surpass expectations during its economic recovery. The bright orange and white paint not only meets aviation safety standards but also gives the tower a distinct charm that has made it an iconic landmark. Historically, Tokyo Tower served as a broadcast antenna and played a pivotal role in bringing television to Japanese households. Today, it’s a popular tourist destination, offering breathtaking views of the city, especially at sunset when we visited. Inside, you will find exhibits, souvenir shops, and a champagne bar.
Tokyo Skytree, completed in 2012, towers at 634 meters, making it the tallest structure in Japan and one of the tallest in the world. Skytree’s 634-meter height is also symbolic; “634” can be read as “Musashi” in Japanese, referencing the historic Musashi Province where Tokyo now resides. Its design pays homage to traditional Japanese aesthetics, with its structure resembling a five-story pagoda while incorporating cutting-edge earthquake-resistant technology. Two observation decks provide stunning 360-degree views of Tokyo, and on clear days, visitors can see as far as Mount Fuji. Skytree has become a symbol of modern Tokyo and houses shopping areas, an aquarium, and even a planetarium, offering a complete entertainment experience. Combine Skytree with nearby Senso-ji Temple for a bottoms up contrast of Tokyo: the peaceful temple’s gardens to a Birds Eye view of bustling city surrounds.
Shibuya Sky is the newest and most modern observation deck in Tokyo, a must-visit directly above the iconic and super famous Shibuya Crossing. Open-air and sleekly designed, it offers unparalleled views of the city from the heart of its vibrant nightlife district, neon-lit streets, and the dynamic Shibuya district. From the deck, you can watch the mesmerizing “scramble” at Shibuya Crossing, where thousands of pedestrians cross in synchronized waves every few minutes. The deck’s design encourages relaxation and reflection, blending the city’s urban excitement with a moment of tranquility high above the bustling streets. Shibuya Sky’s contemporary design reflects Tokyo’s continuous push toward innovation and reinvention. Rain on the day we visited closed the open air decks but that’s okay, it gives us one more reason to return to Tokyo.
Escaping the City: A Day Trip to Mount Fuji
Swapping Tokyo’s hustle for Mount Fuji’s serenity was a refreshing change. The iconic mountain, standing at 3,776 meters, has been a spiritual symbol of Japan for centuries and is even designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known as “Fujisan” in Japanese, the mountain’s nearly perfect cone shape has inspired countless artists and poets over the years. Mount Fuji loomed in the distance, shrouded in clouds, adding an air of mystery to the landscape. Despite the closure of the 5th Station due to weather, we stopped at the 4th Station, where glimpses of the summit broke through the clouds. The crisp air and serene environment were a stark contrast to Tokyo’s bustling energy.
Owakudani Valley
Our next stop was Owakudani Valley, a volcanic wonderland located on Mount Hakone. The valley is known for its sulfuric hot springs and steaming vents, remnants of an eruption 3,000 years ago. Walking through the valley, we were greeted by the strong scent of sulfur and the sight of bubbling pools. Owakudani is famous for its “kuro tamago”—eggs boiled in the natural hot springs, which turn black from the sulfur. Local legend says eating one of these eggs can extend your life by seven years.
Hakone Ropeway
From Owakudani, we boarded the Hakone Ropeway, a cable car system offering panoramic views of the volcanic terrain and, on clear days, Mount Fuji. The ride was smooth and breathtaking, with sweeping vistas of Lake Ashi and the surrounding forests. The ropeway connects Owakudani to Togendai, making it an essential part of the Hakone experience.
Lake Ashi Cruise
At Togendai, we embarked on a scenic cruise across Lake Ashi. The lake, formed in the caldera of Mount Hakone, is known for its serene beauty and reflects Mount Fuji’s grandeur on clear days. Our vessel, which, to me, resembles a pirate ship, added a whimsical touch to the journey. Along the way, we passed the iconic red torii gate of Hakone Shrine, which stands partially submerged in the lake, creating a picturesque scene.
Bullet Train Experience
The day concluded with a thrilling ride on the Shinkansen, Japan’s famous bullet train. Traveling at speeds of up to 320 km/h (199 mph), the train whisked us back to Tokyo in minutes. The smooth ride and impeccable punctuality of the Shinkansen highlighted Japan’s dedication to innovation and efficiency.
5 Fun Facts About Mount Fuji
- Mount Fuji is an active stratovolcano, with its last eruption occurring in 1707.
- It is one of Japan’s “Three Holy Mountains,” along with Mount Tate and Mount Haku.
- The mountain has inspired artistic works like Hokusai’s famous woodblock print series, “Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji.”
- Climbing Mount Fuji is a popular activity, with the official climbing season running from July to September. Pilgrims and hikers often stay overnight at mountain huts to watch the sunrise from the summit, a phenomenon known as “Goraiko.”
- The mountain is surrounded by five beautiful lakes: Kawaguchiko, Yamanakako, Saiko, Shojiko, and Motosuko, which are popular spots for photography and relaxation.
This day trip offered a perfect balance of natural beauty, cultural exploration, and modern marvels, leaving us with unforgettable memories of Japan’s majestic countryside. The experience was so magical that Mick decided he wants to return and hike Mount Fuji for his next milestone birthday. The three of us have already agreed—we will definitely be back.
Mario Kart Tours: Gaming Dreams Realized
Have you ever dreamed of racing through the vibrant streets of Tokyo like a character in a Mario Kart game? This tour brought that dream to life in the most exhilarating way. Our adventure began at Shibuya Crossing—the world’s busiest intersection—where we zoomed through the sea of synchronized pedestrians. As we navigated Tokyo’s iconic neighborhoods, we discovered the city’s multi-level streets—a marvel of urban planning. The streets in neighborhoods like Nishi-Shinjuku are layered, with north-south traffic flowing on one level and east-west traffic on another. These multi-level designs help Tokyo manage its dense population and high traffic volume, ensuring smooth transportation in one of the busiest cities in the world. Fun Fact: you can’t actually jump your go-kart from the top level to the bottom in real life.
The tour wasn’t just about the thrill of go-karting; it was also a cultural immersion. We sped through Harajuku, famous for its eccentric street fashion and trendy shops, and Shinjuku, known for its glittering skyscrapers and bustling nightlife. Each neighborhood offered a different slice of Tokyo’s unique charm, from traditional elements to modern vibrancy. The karts themselves added to the fun. Dressed in onesies resembling beloved Mario Kart characters, we embraced the spirit of the game, posing for photos and waving to amused onlookers.
Despite initial nerves—especially at the thought of driving through Tokyo’s streets—the experience proved remarkably safe. The Mario Kart tour’s popularity surged after its inclusion in several travel shows and YouTube videos, but strict regulations ensure safety. Participants must hold international driving permits, and the karts are equipped with safety features like seat belts and GPS trackers. Tokyo’s drivers are exceptionally courteous, and the city’s roads are meticulously maintained. Unlike many urban centers, angry drivers and car-swallowing potholes were nonexistent. Even when Mick and Ramiro accidentally veered off course, random friendly pedestrians jumped to the rescue, pointing them back in the correct travel lanes—Japanese roads are left-drive like London.
The highlight of the tour was cruising through Akihabara, Tokyo’s tech and gaming hub. With neon signs lighting up the streets and anime characters adorning shopfronts, it felt like stepping into a futuristic arcade. The sounds of the bustling district, combined with the hum of our karts, made the experience unforgettable.
By the end of the tour, we all agreed it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The combination of nostalgia, adventure, and Tokyo’s incredible urban landscape made this one of the most memorable parts of our trip. If you’re planning to visit Tokyo, put the Mario Kart tour at the top of your list—it’s pure magic on wheels.
Reflections
Five days in Tokyo barely scratched the surface of what this city has to offer. Its blend of futuristic innovation, cultural richness, and unparalleled hospitality makes it a destination like no other. On our next visit, we plan to explore Japan’s remote islands, hike Mount Fuji, and delve deeper into this incredible country. For now, Tokyo remains a city that has left an indelible mark on our hearts.
Feel free to comment, I would love to hear from you