The Bet
I lost a bet. Everyone who knows Michelle agrees it was a safe bet. The wager? If she earned straight A’s, I would take her to Paris. It seemed like a sure thing in my favor—don’t get me wrong—she’s smart, just more free-spirited than studious. Little did I know, the promise of Paris would ignite an unstoppable determination in her.
Decades earlier, with only a year left before graduation, Michelle made the difficult decision to put her education on hold to care for her ailing mother. As life unfolded, she built a successful career at Deloitte—where we met—the urgency to return to school faded. The demands of frequent travel made night classes impossible, and her academic aspirations were continually deferred. Then, in mid-life, an opportunity emerged to step away from Deloitte and explore a new path, reigniting the possibility of completing what she had once set aside.
“If you get straight A’s, I will take you to Paris,” I told her, hoping to incentivize a restart to her long-postponed college dreams. What I underestimated was her tenacity and love of discounts, so to her, a free trip to Paris was the ultimate bargain. Either way, the bet was a win for me personally. Only an idiot would pass up a trip to Paris.
“You’re on!” she responded, then dove into her studies with a level of determination she usually reserved for bargain hunting. Long story short, she graduated at the top of her class, and soon, we were celebrating with a first-class flight from Washington to Charles de Gaulle.
Living Le Marais
My previous visits to Paris were in the early 2000s, long before smartphones and apps like Airbnb so I spent that time in tourist hotels surrounded by touristy things. This trip, I was excited to experience the city like a local. We booked an apartment in Le Marais, a historic district known for its well-preserved Renaissance architecture, vibrant art scene, and eclectic mix of boutiques, galleries, and cafes.
Le Marais retains a magical old-world charm, a place where narrow cobblestone streets lead to hidden gardens and bustling marketplaces. It is one of the rare neighborhoods in Paris that survived Haussmann’s massive 19th-century urban renewal. Le Marais offers an unparalleled blend of medieval architecture, contemporary culture, and a spirit of inclusivity. A walk through its streets reveals a dynamic mix of history, diversity, and resilience, making it a standout even in a city as spectacular as Paris.
Le Marais has long been a cornerstone of Jewish heritage in Paris and, in more recent decades, has also become the heart of the city’s LGBTQ+ community. Historically home to Paris’s Jewish population, the neighborhood is rich with synagogues, kosher restaurants, and the Museum of Jewish Art and History, preserving centuries of cultural and religious tradition. The Jewish faith’s deep-rooted emphasis on learning, acceptance, and tolerance helped shape Le Marais into a space where diversity thrives. By the late 20th century, these values contributed to the district’s transformation into Paris’s premier LGBTQ+ neighborhood. Today, Le Marais is just as well known for its vibrant Pride celebrations, its iconic LGBTQ+ landmarks like Open Café and the historic bookstore Les Mots à la Bouche, and its dynamic array of bars, clubs, and advocacy spaces that continue to foster inclusivity and community.
A Stark Contrast
After a restless night on the plane (blame the free champagne), we kept our first day low-key, allowing ourselves to soak in the atmosphere of our new home in Le Marais. Wandering through its historic streets, we marveled at the well-preserved architecture until we arrived at one of Paris’s most controversial landmarks: the Centre Pompidou. Designed by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, its inside-out structure—complete with exposed pipes, ducts, and steel framework—sharply contrasts with the surrounding classical buildings. When it opened in 1977, it became the first museum in the world dedicated entirely to modern and contemporary art, a bold and radical departure from Paris’s traditional art institutions. Inside, we explored an extensive collection of masterpieces, from Kandinsky and Matisse to Warhol and Picasso, immersing ourselves in a space where creativity and experimentation reign supreme.
Afterward, we wandered into Place des Vosges, often hailed as the most beautiful square in Paris. Established in the early 17th century, its perfectly symmetrical design, red-brick facades, and shaded arcades have made it a timeless retreat for locals and visitors alike. Once home to Victor Hugo, the legendary author of Les Misérables, the square has long been a hub of literary and artistic inspiration.
We capped off the afternoon by stopping at a small, unassuming café, indulging in what Parisians consider everyday life: wholesome, high-quality food—free of chemicals and preservatives—at a price lower than even fast food in the U.S. It was a simple yet striking reminder that in Paris, good food isn’t a luxury; it’s a way of life.
Emily Michelle in Paris
Of course, no visit to Paris is complete without a stop at the Eiffel Tower, so naturally, it topped all three of our wish lists. If you bet on Ramiro throwing Michelle and me off the Eiffel Tower, you lost … for now. He would save his murder attempt for Bordeaux later in the trip.
Since the world already knows the history of this iconic landmark, I’ll spare you the usual details. But here’s a fun fact I’d wager you didn’t know: when the Eiffel Tower was completed on March 31, 1889, it stood at 1,083 feet, making it the tallest manmade structure in the world. Likely you did know that, but here’s the twist … it took the title from none other than the Washington Monument in Washington, D.C., which held the record from 1884 to 1889. Yes, you read that right—before the Eiffel Tower, the tallest structure on Earth was in Washington, not even New York. Put that in your beret and smoke it!
When visiting Gustave Eiffel’s creation, I highly recommend splashing out and booking the Champagne Tour—because what better way to experience Paris than combining its two greatest indulgences: towering views and world-class Champagne? As we stood high above the city, the three of us savored a perfectly chilled glass of Moët & Chandon Impérial Brut, its crisp bubbles dancing on our tongues while we soaked in the dazzling panorama of the City of Light.
From there, we took a scenic walk through the Trocadéro Gardens, an elegant park offering some of the most spectacular views of the Eiffel Tower. Designed for the 1937 Exposition Internationale, the gardens feature expansive fountains, statues, and immaculately manicured lawns. It has long been a gathering place for locals and tourists alike, offering a serene escape amidst the bustle of the city.
The Arc de Triomphe was our next stop, an awe-inspiring symbol of French resilience, its commanding presence and monumental architecture standing as a testament to the nation’s triumphs. Yet, as if its grand exterior weren’t impressive enough, the French packed its interior with a treasure trove of priceless art. Elaborate sculptures depict heroism, sacrifice, and the idealized human form—sometimes draped in flowing garments, but often gloriously naked. Because, let’s be honest, what’s a proper tribute to European history without nudity?
From there, we meandered along the Champs-Élysées, often hailed as “the most beautiful avenue in the world,” soaking in the charm of its wide, tree-lined boulevards and the grandeur of its historic architecture. The avenue is home to the flagship stores of the world’s most renowned fashion houses, their elegant window displays tempting passersby with the latest in Parisian luxury. Naturally, we couldn’t resist indulging in a bit of shopping along the way.
Later that evening, we stumbled upon a charming café tucked away in Le Marais, where we savored an exquisite meal in the warm glow of candlelight, the hum of conversation and clinking glasses filling the air. It felt like the perfect ending to a day steeped in Parisian magic. As we lingered over our last sips of wine, we couldn’t help but agree—this was exactly how a first, full-day in Paris should end.
Masterpieces and Memories
The Louvre awaited us the next morning. As the world’s largest and most-visited museum, it houses an unparalleled collection of art spanning centuries. Arriving early, we first tackled the Mona Lisa, before the throngs of tourists eager to catch a glimpse of her enigmatic smile would crowd in. Beyond Da Vinci’s masterpiece, we wandered through galleries filled with sculptures from ancient Greece, Renaissance paintings, and Napoleonic relics.
Paris Travel Tip: By sheer luck, we booked our trip during the first week of school for children in both the U.S. and Europe—a golden window for travel. Parents (and let’s be honest, even kids) wouldn’t dare miss those first few days, which meant we got to experience Paris bathed in lingering summer warmth, yet blissfully uncrowded. With fewer tourists packing the streets and major attractions, it felt as though we almost had the City of Light to ourselves.
Stepping out of the Louvre, we strolled along the Seine, admiring the beautiful bridges and bookstalls that line its banks until arriving at the historic Hôtel de Ville, Paris’s grand city hall. We meandered along Rue Réaumur, a lesser-known shopping street filled with independent designers and concept stores, where we delighted in scooping up unique fashion pieces so we could better fit in with the locals.
Along our walk, we made an unplanned yet profoundly moving stop at Notre Dame Cathedral. Standing before its magnificent Gothic façade, we marveled at the centuries of history etched into its intricate stonework. But this visit carried an even deeper significance as we gazed at its partially restored exterior, construction tents in front, cranes looming behind—a haunting reminder of the devastating 2019 fire. Watching the flames engulf such a beloved landmark had been heartbreaking, an unimaginable loss for Paris and the world.
Now, seeing it in the midst of restoration, its scaffolding-clad frame both fragile and resilient, filled us with a renewed sense of hope. The city’s unwavering commitment to returning Notre Dame to its original splendor—even using medieval construction techniques to ensure authenticity rather than modernization—stands as a powerful testament to France’s dedication to preserving its cultural heritage through artistry for generations to come.
Bohemian Bliss and Parisian Panoramas
We spent the day immersing ourselves in the bohemian charm of Montmartre, the historic hilltop neighborhood that has long been a haven for artists, writers, and free spirits. Once a rural village outside the city limits, Montmartre became the epicenter of Paris’s artistic revolution in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It was home to legendary figures like Picasso, Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Modigliani, who found inspiration in its winding cobblestone streets, lively cafés, and electrifying nightlife. The neighborhood still retains its creative energy, with street performers, musicians, and painters capturing its essence in real-time.
As we ascended Montmartre’s steep streets, we marveled at the contrast between the bustling Place du Tertre—filled with portrait artists and café terraces—and the quieter, tree-lined residential lanes that exude an old-world Parisian charm. Hidden staircases and ivy-covered buildings revealed secret courtyards and tucked-away gardens, offering an escape from the more crowded squares.
That evening, Michelle treated us to a Seine River dinner cruise. As we glided along the water, the illuminated monuments of Paris—Notre Dame, the Louvre, and the Eiffel Tower—glowed in the night sky, their reflections dancing on the river’s surface. Sipping champagne as we took in the timeless beauty of the City of Light made for a truly magical end to the day.
Pedaling Through the Past
The next morning, Ramiro had arranged a bike tour that would take us through some of the most historic neighborhoods on Paris’ famed Left Bank. Known as the city’s intellectual and artistic heart, the Left Bank has long been home to writers, philosophers, and revolutionaries, its storied cafés, prestigious universities, and bohemian spirit shaping the cultural identity of Paris.
Admittedly, we were a bit hesitant about cycling through such a bustling city, unsure of what to expect from Parisian traffic. However, we quickly discovered that Parisian drivers are remarkably courteous, giving cyclists plenty of space and allowing our tour group to glide through even the busiest streets without so much as a honk or a hint of impatience. The bike tour, which took us through the heart of Paris turned out to be one of the best ways to take in the city’s beauty, blending history, culture, and iconic landmarks. The slow speed of the bike enabled us to take in more detail than you could from a car, yet a pace faster than walking meant we could explore more than if we were on foot.
The tour’s first stop was the Luxembourg Gardens, a tranquil oasis in the city’s bustling Left Bank. Established in 1612 by Marie de’ Medici, the widow of King Henry IV, the gardens were inspired by the Boboli Gardens in Florence and remain one of the most beloved green spaces in Paris. We paused by the Medici Fountain, a stunning baroque-style masterpiece adorned with mythological sculptures that make it one of the most photographed spots in the park.
From there, we pedaled into the Latin Quarter, a neighborhood teeming with history and youthful energy. Contrary to what its name might suggest, the Latin Quarter is not a Spanish neighborhood; rather, it earned its name from the medieval students who hailed from every corner of Europe and spoke to each other in Latin as it was their only common language. The neighborhood is currently home to numerous universities and the Pantheon, where some of France’s most celebrated figures, including Voltaire, Victor Hugo, and Marie Curie, rest in eternal honor.
With many engineers in my immediate family, the Latin Quarter has always held a special place in my heart. Nestled within this academic neighborhood is the world’s first engineering university, École Nationale des Ponts et Chaussées. This prestigious institution played a pioneering role in shaping modern civil engineering, produced some of history’s most brilliant minds, and contributed to France’s ambitious infrastructure projects. From bridges and roads to canals and sewage treatment, formal engineering programs helped propel Paris into one of the most advanced and sophisticated cities in the world. The school’s impact even stretched across the Atlantic, serving as the inspiration for the United States’ first engineering university, West Point Academy.
One of our most anticipated stops was Le Procope, the world’s first café, founded in 1686. More than just a place for coffee, Le Procope was a hub of intellectual and political discourse, frequented by the likes of Voltaire, Rousseau, Benjamin Franklin, and even Napoleon Bonaparte (who, legend has it, once left a hat behind as collateral for a debt). Stepping inside felt like traveling back in time—its walls adorned with antique décor, historic documents, and echoes of Enlightenment-era debates that shaped France’s future.
Before wrapping up our ride, we made a pop-culture stop at the filming locations from the hit TV show Emily in Paris. We biked past the charming Place de l’Estrapade, where Emily’s fictional apartment is located, and admired the quaint bakery featured in the series. Seeing the picturesque square in real life, with its classic Parisian architecture and intimate cafés, gave us a new appreciation for how effortlessly Paris serves as a backdrop for cinematic storytelling.
We ended the day at Le Progrès, a classic Parisian bistro, where we enjoyed a well-earned meal after our ride through history, academia, and a touch of modern pop culture.
Sparkling Soul of France: A Day in Champagne
A high-speed train whisked us away from bustling Paris on a day-trip to Épernay, the heart of Champagne country. This small yet illustrious town is often referred to as the Capital of Champagne. The region’s cool climate, chalky soil, and centuries-old traditions have made it the undisputed leader in producing the world’s finest sparkling wines.
The history of Champagne is as effervescent as a glass of, well, champagne! While sparkling wine existed in various forms before the 17th century, the modern method of Champagne-making is credited to Dom Pérignon, a Benedictine monk who lived in Épernay. Though he didn’t invent the process, he significantly refined it, developing techniques to strengthen bottles to withstand the pressure of secondary fermentation and blending grapes for balance and complexity.
That second part is key! If you’re a wine connoisseur, you know that each vintage tells a different story—factors like heat, rainfall, and climate shifts can dramatically alter a wine’s character from year to year. But not Champagne. Ever wonder why?
The mystery was solved during our Moët & Chandon tour. Unlike traditional wines, which vary from vintage to vintage, Champagne maintains a consistent taste year after year because it is meticulously blended from a rolling reserve of multiple years’ worth of vintages. Moët & Chandon, for example, blends a continuous five-year reserve to ensure its signature flavor remains unchanged, no matter when you purchase a bottle. How incredible is that? Even more incredible is, no matter how many times I tour wineries, I always learn something new.
After learning about the intricate méthode champenoise, we arrived at the highlight of the visit—a tasting of Moët & Chandon’s iconic Impérial Brut, which has been my favorite drink since my time living in London. As we raised our glasses, the first sip seemed somehow even better in the historic tasting room. Champagne truly is an experience, a celebration in every bottle.
Leaving Moët & Chandon, we took a leisurely stroll down the legendary Avenue de Champagne, a grand boulevard lined with some of the world’s most prestigious Champagne houses, their stately 18th-century facades exuding history and refinement. Our next stop was La Villa by Michel Gonet, a smaller, family-run Champagne house known for its elegant, meticulously crafted vintages. Here, we tasted a vintage Blanc de Blancs, made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes, while basking in the warmth of the late summer sun. Its crisp minerality and long, luxurious finish perfectly captured the essence of Épernay’s terroir.
As the afternoon waned, we took one final, unhurried walk along Avenue de Champagne, soaking in the quiet grandeur of the town before boarding our high-speed train back to Paris. With the taste of Champagne still lingering on our tongues, we reflected on the day—this had been more than just a tour; it had been a journey through time, tradition, and the very essence of French winemaking.
A Final Masterpiece: Farewell to Paris at Musée d’Orsay
Our final day was spent at Musée d’Orsay, a museum that stands out for its unparalleled collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist masterpieces, offering a unique window into one of the most transformative periods in art history. Unlike the sprawling collection of art at the Louvre, which spans millennia, the Musée d’Orsay focuses on 19th and early 20th centuries only, showcasing the groundbreaking works of artists who defied tradition and redefined artistic expression. Though I had visited Paris several times, I had never made it to this museum, which is considered one of the most remarkable in the world.
Housed in a former Beaux-Arts railway station, the building itself is a work of art. Originally constructed as the Gare d’Orsay for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, the station once welcomed visitors arriving in Paris by train. However, by the mid-20th century, its platforms had become too short for modern trains, and it was repurposed into the stunning museum we see today. The museum’s vast collection includes works by Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, Degas, Cézanne, and Manet, among others, showcasing revolutionary techniques that challenged the rigid traditions of art.
Certainly, a highlight for Michelle—herself a former dancer—was Degas’ ballet dancers, whose delicate figures seemed to be caught in motion, capturing both the discipline and ethereal grace of the performers. His works, often portraying rehearsals and backstage moments, offer an intimate glimpse into the world of 19th-century Parisian ballet, a subject that fascinated him throughout his career. We marveled at how he conveyed movement, his pastel strokes bringing life to each pose.
It was a fitting final stop in our Parisian adventure, a last glimpse into the city’s boundless creativity before we prepared for the next leg of the trip: Bordeaux and Saint-Émilion.
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