After swimming with sea lions at San Cristóbal, observing giant tortoises in Santa Cruz’s Highlands, and encountering boobies, sea turtles, fish, and sharks over the previous several days, we were wondering what Isabela could possibly add to our Galápagos adventure. Only steps off the ferry we quickly learned our travel agent had saved the best for last!
At nearly 1,800 square miles, Isabela is the largest of the Galápagos islands. Still in the process of formation with 5 active volcanoes and vast tracts of still-barren lava fields, it the least livable of the three inhabited islands. The 2,000 residents that get to call Isabela home are very lucky though.
With well-manicured hotels, long white sandy beaches, and a wonderfully quaint village square lined with excellent restaurants, we found Isabela to be the most luxurious of the Galápagos islands. That said, dining is top-notch everywhere if you happen to be a connoisseur of the locally harvested foods: fish and vegetables. “American” food was available — flown in frozen — but astronomically expensive. I ordered a small pizza one night and dropped $35 for the change of cuisine. An additional benefit of sticking to the healthier, native diet: Ramiro and I shed 10 pounds during the vacation, a first we’d both like to repeat.
Travel Tip: when given the option we chose a land-based excursion over a cruise. None of the islands have deep water ports or large docks. Tiny skiff boats are the only means of ferrying visitors between ships and islands, slowing and complicating access to restaurants and tours. And, of course, the meaning of Pacific and its reality are very different; I’m extremely glad we slept in beds anchored on land.
Volcán Sierra Negra
Our first tour was billed as a moderate hike along one side of Isabela’s largest caldera to a lookout point where lush highlands give way to still-barren lava fields.
“Today we will be hiking 15 kilometers, climbing 1,706 meters (5,599 feet) along Volcán Sierra Negra and into its lava fields so you can see how life emerges very slowly from a volcano,” began our guide as the van pulled away from the hotel. “With a circumference of exactly 26 miles Sierra Negra is the largest caldera in the Galápagos. The hike will begin in cold mist until we pass the caldera where temperatures will quickly soar as we descend into the lava fields. The last eruption was in 2005 and there have only been 18 earthquakes since so we should be fine today,” he finished.
If you can time reaching the summit around midday when the mist breaks, the site offers impressive views of all of Isabela and the distant Fernandina and Santiago islands. It also showcases the simultaneously destructive and life-creating forces of volcanoes. Looking northwest, vast, barren lava fields stand as a reminder of the destructive powers of an eruption. Turning to face the southeast reveals lush green, which would not exist without the volcano’s long shadow and cliff that trap the sea’s moisture, enabling life to thrive. After exploding into existence, experts estimate the Galápagos’ ecosystem took 1,000 years to establish, 25,000 to mature.
Life wasn’t the only thing emerging slowly from the volcano that day. Our descent down its misty cliffs seemed at times in step with the pace of evolution. Despite being accustom to long and rugged hikes, navigating the slippery slope took some effort. My advice to anyone touring the islands: ask for exact descriptions of tours so you can gauge what is ‘moderate’ or not and prepare accordingly.
Pearl Shell Bay
After a long, hot day on the volcano the hotel manager suggested we grab our snorkeling gear and jump into the waters at Pearl Shell Bay. With only a small opening to the sea, the shallow bay offers warmer waters and is a playground for baby sea lions. A raised boardwalk guides visitors above the roots of red mangroves, finishing at a square platform where visitors can stow their dry gear and dive in … if you can find a way around the sea lions!
Pearl Shell Bay is a must see! In addition to yet another spot to interact with baby sea lions (trust me, you never ever, ever, get tired of this), the calm, warm waters were the perfect spot to soak in more aquatic life and soothe the muscles. I will always remember Pearl Shell for its playful sea lion pups and the only spot in the world where I’ve spotted a sea turtle eating.
Travel Tip: buy and take your own snorkel and fins. Organized tours provide them but equipment can be rough. You’ll also have gear handy for quick swims in beaches and bays, where we found the sea lions most playful.
Penguins and Seahorses
The next few adventures returned us to the water where we would find the last two species we hadn’t already experienced: Galapagos Penguins and Pacific Seahorses.
The Galapagos Penguin is, of course, the only penguin native to North America. And only on a technicality. Had they setup their colony on the other side of the Island there would be no penguins in the Northern Hemisphere. If you set out to see them pack your patience! Sightings are rare, we spoke with numerous tourists who had spent days out on the water without spotting a single one.
The Pacific Seahorse’s only known oceanic population is found in sub-tidal seagrass meadows off Isabela’s coast. They are equally difficult to spot. Without our tour guide literally grabbing me by the head, shoving me into a patch of grass where one was nesting I would never have found one.
Los Tuneles
Our final aquatic adventure was a day trip to to the Los Tuneles marine sanctuary. Los Tuneles are a maze of lava tunnels and bridges above and below the water. The unique formations slow ocean currents and provide crystal clear waters to see marine life at great depths, visitors can expect to see down 30+ feet with absolute clarity. Also, the bridges are a perfect canvass for that Instagram-worthy vacation photo! Visiting them requires advanced planning and knowledge of tidal conditions (another reason for using a travel agent). Access has to be timed with low tide so captains can navigate the treacherous terrain.
Travel Tip: leave the kids at home. There is no internet to speak of, very few power outlets, no junk food, and tours require a lot of patience and stamina. If you can’t imagine your kid living in a truck stop motel without internet access, spending 10 hours a day in the outdoors, and only eating grilled fish and vegetables for weeks … think twice about bringing them. Most kids and teens we came across were miserable.
Last Day on Isabela
The only day without an organized tour was our last. Locals recommended we grab a pair of bikes and ride west out of town along trail next to the shore to a fire tower. Only one sandy road heads west and it is a dead end so foolproof in terms of our ability to get lost.
Setting off after beautifully strong Gapápagos cappuccinos (why can’t Americans make good coffee), we casually explored the national park, hopping off our bikes frequently to swim, snorkel, and cross paths with giant tortoises on their way to the sea. We marked the end of the ride, day, and visit to the islands with drinks at local hangout, Sand Bar, and began to discuss upcoming adventures in Quito, The Equator, and the beginning of The Amazon.
Bye for now Gapápagos!
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