A wave pounding, spine crunching speedboat transfer that compelled even the most experienced sailors to reach for their dramamine deposited us in Santa Cruz after an early departure from San Cristóbal. Having experienced the nuances of inter-island Galapagós transportation firsthand, we were thankful our travel agent started off the Santa Cruz portion of our adventure with a land-based tour. After unpacking, we set off for the Highlands and the Charles Darwin Research Center.
Twenty minutes into the drive on Santa Cruz’s only road, the dry, barren landscape gave way to lush, green fields of clover that seemed more Irish than island. The powerful equatorial sun ducked behind clouds of mist. We had entered the Highlands.
World famous as a sanctuary for the giant Galápagos tortoise, the Highlands offers plenty of faster-paced adventures that outdoor enthusiasts would love. Most who travel to the Highlands head straight to tortoise sanctuaries and we would have done the same had it not been for the tour guide’s extensive knowledge of the area.
Volcanos and lava tunnels
Our first two stops included a hike along the Los Gemelos volcano rims and a walk-and-crawl through a mile-long underground lava tunnel. Exploring the unexpected terrain, our guide explained how volcanoes and rivers of lava formed the Galápagos and how the continental shelf is moving the islands ever closer towards South America. But don’t wait for them to reach the mainland! The rough Pacific surf tears them apart long before they reach the coast. Millions of years from now new islands will explode into existence to replace the ones enjoyed today.
Travel Tip: visit the Galápagos in mid December through late January. You will pay peak season prices but the rare and exotic animals are busy breeding. This means tortoises have to make their way to the shore, guaranteeing you will catch a glimpse of them traversing their natural habitat. It also means sea lion pups and baby penguins are playful, after a few months they are no longer interested in people.
The giant tortoise
The number one reason people visit the Galápagos is to interact with its most famous resident, the giant tortoise. Every article we read researching the trip mentioned their age (many live well over 100 years) and their size (males can weigh over 900 pounds). When it comes to these giants, however well-written, words fail to capture their enormity.
Consider this, one male tortoise can be 3 times the size of Ramiro and I combined. Leaving the recommended 5 feet distance from the ancient animals, photos below provide a good scale comparison: Ramiro and I (not exactly petite guys) versus younger male tortoises. Rolling ourselves into balls, we are visibly smaller: much smaller in fact. A humbling experience for us both!
Cold water?
Okay, the giant tortoises are very cool and I truly understand why people from around the world flock to see them. For me, however, the real magic of the Galápagos is found underwater. Day-long excursions from Santa Cruz enabled Ramiro and I to explore Santa Fe and Pinzon islands extensively. These cold water sanctuaries are home to sea lion colonies, tropical fish, shark, stingrays, sea turtles, and whales.
Yes, cold water. Despite straddling the equator, powerful ocean currents temper the region. Average high air temperatures are only in the low 80s, water in in the mid 70s. The dry air feels much colder than thermometers suggest when the sun ducks behind plentiful clouds. Wetsuits and long sleeve shirts are a must year-round!
The currents control more than the environment, as I learned firsthand. Filming a colony of sea lions playing, distracted, I stopped paying attention to my position in the water. Drifting along the shoreline, serenity switched to shock as I found myself floating 4″ above a very shallow nest of 50+ reef sharks! Before I could react, a sea lion pup swam past me and bit the sharks, chasing them away and giving me room to back out of the nest with the grace of a fish out of water.
Several days, islands, and excursions into the trip, we were beginning to wonder if we had experienced all the Galápagos had to offer. Our next stop, Isabela Island, would quickly dispel this notion.
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