History, Culture, and Adventures with Friends
Departing Tokyo, I arrived in Seoul, South Korea, ready to spend several days exploring the city with my friends Bernadette and her husband, Hans. Bernadette and I first met when I was living in Australia and have been close friends ever since. We’re the kind of friends that, even though a few years may pass, when we see each other in person we pick up exactly where we left off as though no time had passed at all. Bernadette and Hans had been living in Seoul for some time, their local expertise made this trip unforgettable.
Seoul, with its blend of ancient traditions and cutting-edge modernity, offers countless experiences, from historical landmarks to quirky cafés and serene parks. The city’s roots stretch back over 2,000 years, having served as the seat of power for various Korean kingdoms. Seoul has been a longstanding and thriving hub of Korean society, culture, and tradition. Even amidst the dazzling skyscrapers and technological innovations of modern Seoul, its serene historic sites stand proud, offering a poignant reminder of the city’s resilience, creativity, and enduring heritage. Visiting Seoul feels like stepping into a living tapestry, where peaceful palaces and parks carry the spirit of its vibrant past and the skyscrapers that surround them showcase its dynamic present.
Views from the Mountain Top
After an early morning flight, Bernadette eased me into the visit by exploring her neighborhood, Itaewon. Known as one of Seoul’s most vibrant and diverse areas, Itaewon is celebrated for its open-minded and accepting atmosphere, making it a hub for Korea’s LGBTQ+ community. Historically, its proximity to the U.S. military base fostered a mix of cultures, creating a neighborhood renowned for its eclectic nightlife, international cuisine, and welcoming vibe. Seoul’s café culture is legendary, and it’s easy to see why. We fueled up at one of the district’s charming cafés, where the coffee—as bold and strong as it was—takes a back seat to stunning pastries that are works of art.
With my blood caffeine levels back to normal, we set off on a steep stroll through Namsan Park, home to the iconic Namsan Seoul Tower. This landmark stands atop Namsan Mountain and offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city. Originally built as a communications tower in 1969, it opened to the public in 1980 and quickly became a beloved attraction. Standing 236 meters tall, the tower rises 479 meters above sea level when combined with the height of the mountain. At night, the tower lights up with LED displays, making it a stunning beacon visible from across the city. Fun fact: the tower’s color lighting changes to reflect air quality—a unique way of blending artistry with utility and serve as a consummate reminder of the city’s environmental impacts.
Namsan Park itself provides tranquility in a city as densely populated as Seoul. It’s a lush oasis with walking trails that wind through forests and gardens, offering a peaceful retreat from the urban hustle. The park’s elevated position allows for unobstructed views of the sprawling city below, including the Han River and distant mountains. Known for its seasonal beauty, the park features cherry blossoms in spring, plenty of shade in summer, and stunning autumn colors. This quiet haven is a favorite spot for both locals and tourists, combining natural serenity with the vibrancy of the city skyline.
Cycling Through Seoul and a Taste of History
The second day was an adventure on two wheels. With Hans at work, I borrowed his bike so Bernadette and I could embark on a 50-kilometer exploration of Seoul, showcasing the city’s remarkable cycling infrastructure. Starting in her neighborhood, we descended from steep Mount Namsan—the return after 45 kilometers would prove more challenging than the glide down—and crossed the Han River via dedicated bike paths. From there, we connected to trails along the Tancheon and Yangjaecheon streams, marveling at the seamless blend of urban and natural landscapes. It was truly impressive how far we traveled without ever needing to navigate busy city streets—a testament to Seoul’s thoughtful urban planning and commitment to promoting eco-friendly transportation.
The Yangjaecheon Stream Trail, a restored ecological gem, was especially memorable. Lined with cherry and metasequoia trees that create a canopy of vibrant green shade in summer, the trail provided stunning views of Seoul’s natural beauty. Stretching 18.5 kilometers from Gwacheon in Gyeonggi-do Province to the southern part of Seoul, the trail and stream wind through beautifully architected urban parks and landscapes, offering a serene escape for bikers, joggers, and walkers. Notably, this trail has been a focal point for ecological preservation and was restored in 1995 through the Yangjaecheon Park Project. Along the way, visitors encounter landmarks like the Yangjae Citizen’s Forest and Seocho Culture and Arts Park, which add cultural and recreational stops to the journey. The trail is famous for its seasonal transformations, from cherry blossoms in spring to vivid autumn foliage, making it a year-round destination for nature lovers. It’s also equipped with resting areas, observatories, and even landscape lighting, ensuring a comfortable and picturesque experience for all who visit.
The end of the ride wasn’t the end of the day. After ditching the bikes and taking a quick shower, we continued with a mini walking tour of Seoul, starting at Gyeongbokgung Palace, the largest of Seoul’s five grand palaces. Built in 1395, this palace was a cornerstone of the Joseon dynasty and remains one of the most iconic landmarks in Korea. Though we didn’t enter the palace that day, we admired its grandeur from the outside and made a mental note to return in traditional costumes.
The day concluded with a stroll through Bukchon Hanok Village, a living museum of traditional Korean homes. A must-see neighborhood, Bukchon offers a unique opportunity to step back in time and experience traditional Korean life in the heart of the city. The village, nestled between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces, is a maze of narrow alleys lined with hanok houses. These homes, some of which date back more than 600 years, feature distinctive grandiose front doors that were traditionally designed to showcase the social status and importance of the families living inside. These doors, often intricately carved and adorned with symbolic motifs, represented not only security but also a statement of prestige in society.
Many of the hanoks now serve as cultural centers, art galleries, and cafés, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in Korea’s rich heritage while enjoying a modern twist. Bernadette and I stopped at one such café, famous for its cakes sculpted to look like live fruit. The intricate designs were almost too beautiful to eat, but the flavors were just as impressive as the presentation, making it a memorable highlight of our visit.
A Day of Modern Marvels
Our third day in Seoul was all about exploring its vibrant modern attractions. We began at Olympic Park, a sprawling multi-use complex that preserves the spirit of the 1988 Seoul Olympics. The park is home to the iconic World Peace Gate, a structure that harmonizes traditional Korean curves with modern design elements. Adorned with murals of the four guardian deities—Blue Dragon, Red Bird, White Tiger, and Turtle Snake—the gate symbolizes unity and peace. Surrounding the gate, the expansive Peace Square provides space for cultural events, leisure activities, and reflection on the park’s legacy as a symbol of global harmony.
Next, we ventured to COEX Mall, a massive underground shopping and entertainment complex located in Gangnam. One of its standout attractions is the Starfield Library, a book lovers dream with 50-foot-high bookshelves lined with tens of thousands of books. The library’s modern design is as awe-inspiring as its collection, making it a must-visit and popular Instagramable site. After marveling at the library, we explored the COEX Aquarium, home to an impressive array of marine life, from tropical fish to sea otters. The aquarium’s most famous resident is a stunning blue whale model named “Ari”, a beloved centerpiece that captivates visitors of all ages. With over 180 exhibit tanks housing more than 40,000 sea creatures, the aquarium features themed zones like the Amazonian World and Marine Touch Lab, where guests can interact with sea life. The exhibits are both engaging and educational, making the aquarium a perfect stop for families, marine enthusiasts, or anyone looking to immerse themselves in the wonders of the underwater world.
The highlight of the day was ascending to the Seoul Sky Observatory at Lotte World Tower, South Korea’s tallest building and the sixth tallest in the world. Rising an incredible 555 meters (1820 feet), the observatory offers one of the highest vantage points on the planet. It provides jaw-dropping 360-degree views of Seoul and beyond. From this dizzying height, we could see the Han River weaving through the metropolis, ancient palaces nestled among modern skyscrapers, and the distant mountains framing the city—a stunning juxtaposition of history and modernity.
The observatory is more than just a viewing platform; it’s a celebration of Korea’s achievements and culture. Interactive exhibits throughout the tower detail the country’s history, technological innovations, and architectural achievements. One of the highlights is the glass-floored Sky Deck, where visitors can look straight down to the bustling streets far below—a thrilling and slightly nerve-wracking experience! The Sky Terrace, an outdoor observation deck, allows you to feel the crisp air as you take in the breathtaking views.
Traditional Costumes and Paliatial Grandeur
We began the day by returning to Gyeongbokgung Palace, but this time we rented traditional Korean hanbok costumes. Dressing up in a hanbok, Korea’s traditional attire, is not only a fun and immersive way to experience the culture but also grants free entry to palaces and museums. A hanbok is characterized by its vibrant colors, elegant lines, and flowing structure. Traditionally worn for centuries, it consists of a jeogori (a short jacket) for both men and women, paired with a chima (a high-waisted skirt) for women or baji (loose-fitting pants) for men. The hanbok is designed to emphasize grace and movement, embodying the harmony and beauty of Korean culture. Today, it is often worn during festivals, weddings, and other special occasions, serving as a cherished symbol of Korea’s rich heritage.
Dressing up in hanbok adds an extra layer of charm to exploring these historic sites, and many visitors seize the opportunity to capture memorable photos in such picturesque surroundings. Bernadette and I had a blast dressing up in the vibrant garments and posing for pictures around the palace’s manicured grounds. It felt like stepping back in time and was a unique way to connect with Korean culture on a deeper level. I highly recommend the experience—any chance to dress up and step into a different era is just fun!
After leaving Gyeongbokgung and our costumes behind, we made our way to Changdeokgung Palace, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in 1405, Changdeokgung is renowned for its Secret Garden, a serene retreat filled with ponds, pavilions, and centuries-old trees. We spent hours exploring the garden’s winding paths, marveling at the harmony between its natural and man-made elements. The garden’s beauty and tranquility offered a stark contrast to the bustling city streets just beyond its walls.
Farewell to Seoul
On my final day in Seoul, with a late flight allowing for a bit more exploration, we visited two iconic locations that encapsulate the city’s charm and history. First, we toured Deoksugung Palace, a unique site that blends traditional Korean and Western architectural styles. The palace, once the seat of the Korean Empire, is smaller than the other grand palaces but holds immense historical significance. Originally established as a residence for Prince Wolsan, the palace gained prominence in 1897 when Emperor Gojong proclaimed the Korean Empire and made it his imperial residence. Its name, Deoksugung, translates to “Palace of Virtuous Longevity,” reflecting the hope for stability during turbulent times.
One of the palace’s most striking features is Seokjojeon Hall, a Western-style building completed in 1910, which now houses an art museum. This blend of traditional hanok structures and Western neoclassical architecture showcases Korea’s transition into modernity. The palace grounds are filled with charming stone paths, towering pines, and elegant halls that create a serene atmosphere, inviting visitors to reflect on Korea’s imperial past and cultural heritage. We also witnessed the Changing of the Royal Guard ceremony, a colorful and lively reenactment that adds a touch of historical immersion to the experience.
On our way back to Bernadette’s apartment we strolled along Cheonggyecheon Stream, an 11-kilometer-long urban oasis running through the heart of downtown Seoul. The stream, once buried beneath an elevated highway, was restored in the early 2000s as part of an ambitious urban renewal project to transform an eyesore and source of pollution into a beautiful park with health benefits for residents and tourists alike. Today, it’s a peaceful haven with walking paths, cascading waterfalls, and art installations. We strolled along its banks, enjoying the soothing sound of water and the sight of locals and tourists alike relaxing in this revitalized space. The stream’s transformation from neglected infrastructure to a vibrant public space is a testament to Seoul’s commitment to innovation and environmental sustainability.
Reflections
Seoul is a city of contrasts—where history and modernity coexist in perfect harmony. From cycling along picturesque streams to walking through touring centuries-old palaces in traditional costumes, every moment felt like a journey through time. Bernadette and Hans were the perfect guides, showing me both the hidden gems and the iconic landmarks of this dynamic city. Leaving Seoul, I felt a deep appreciation for its resilience, creativity, and rich cultural heritage. Until next time, Seoul, annyeong!
Feel free to comment, I would love to hear from you