A Start in Sitges
Day 1: After touching down in the vibrant city of Barcelona, we grabbed a rental car and made our way to the charming coastal town of Sitges where we met up with Ramiro’s childhood friends, Pancho and Gabriel who welcomed us with open arms and a fridge full of local goodies. That first day was all about recovering from the redeye flight and reorienting ourselves to the time zone—cue a low-key afternoon strolling through the historic city center. It’s amazing what sunshine and a good walk will do. While wandering around, we soaked in some intriguing historical tidbits about the ancient town.
Sitges has been inhabited since the Neolithic period! It’s amazing to think people were living here around 4000 BC, probably admiring the same sea views we were. In the 16th century, Sitges was a notorious pirate hideout. Those charming narrow streets? Perfect for looting and pillaging. Thankfully, we only encountered friendly locals and enthusiastic tourists. Sitges was a hub for the Catalan Modernist movement in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Artists and writers flocked here, drawn by the town’s bohemian vibe. Even today, you can feel that artistic spirit in the air.
Day 2: Sitges is the gateway to Cava Country, and today was all about the bubbles! Pancho booked a tour of Codorníu, the oldest winery in Spain, dating back to 1551. The underground caves, or “cavas,” are a sparkling wine lover’s paradise. Did you know that Codorníu was the first winery to produce cava in the traditional method, known as método tradicional, similar to the méthode champenoise used in France to make Champagne?
Walking through Codorníu is like stepping into a wine-soaked time machine, where history and innovation blend seamlessly. The winery’s history is steeped in innovation and tradition. The Codorníu family pioneered the production of cava, becoming Spain’s answer to Champagne. The grounds, buildings, and castle are architectural marvels, with buildings designed by the famed modernist architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch, a contemporary of Gaudí. Don’t miss the seasonal winery-to-table restaurant—it’s a gourmet’s dream!
Day 3: I beach, Ramiro beach, Pancho beach, we beached off the day basking in the Mediterranean sun practicing the art of doing absolutely nothing.
Day 4: All aboard the rack railway to Montserrat! The mountain views were breathtaking, and the monastery perched on the cliffs was like something out of a fairy tale. The Benedictine abbey, known as Santa Maria de Montserrat, has a rich history dating back to the 11th century. Fun fact: the monastery is home to the famous Black Madonna, or “La Moreneta,” a revered statue of the Virgin Mary that attracts pilgrims from all over the world.
Another intriguing aspect of Montserrat is its connection to the legend of the Holy Grail. Some believe that Montserrat is one of the possible locations of the Grail, adding a layer of mystery and allure to the already impressive site. Over the centuries, the monastery has transformed from a secluded religious site into a bustling tourist destination, thanks in part to the construction of the rack railway, which made the steep climb accessible to visitors. Today, Montserrat seamlessly blends its spiritual significance with modern amenities, offering museums, restaurants, and a funicular that takes visitors from the monastery to the top of the mountain, offering stunning views and mountainside hiking trails. Montserrat is a must-visit for anyone exploring Catalonia.
Day 5: We had a little adventure when we accidentally left our stylish leather travel bag (affectionately known as the “Gay Bag”) in a café in Monistrol de Montserrat. After braving terrible traffic to retrieve it, we decided to return via the scenic coastal route through Parque de El Garraf. This happy accident led us to a fantastic lunch at Cala Morisca el Mirador and several picturesque beach stops on our way back to Sitges.
The Garraf Coast is a stunning stretch of Catalonia’s Mediterranean shoreline, known for its rugged cliffs, hidden coves, and charming seaside towns. This area has a rich history, with roots dating back to Roman times, when it was an important trading route. Over the centuries, it has seen everything from pirate invasions to the flourishing of Modernist architecture, especially in the town of Sitges. The region is also home to the Garraf Natural Park, a protected area that showcases the area’s unique limestone landscapes and biodiversity. The park is a haven for hikers and nature lovers, offering panoramic views of the sea and opportunities to explore ancient caves and archaeological sites.
Driving along the C-31 coast road is an adventure in itself. This twisty, view-laden route hugs the cliffs of the Garraf Coast, providing breathtaking vistas at every turn. Known locally as “Las Costas del Garraf,” the road was originally built in the early 20th century and has since become famous for its dramatic scenery and thrilling curves. It’s a favorite among cyclists and motorcyclists, who flock to the route for the challenge and the spectacular views of the Mediterranean below. Along the way, drivers can stop at several lookout points to take in the scenery or visit one of the small beaches tucked between the cliffs. Whether you’re seeking adventure or simply want to enjoy the beauty of the Catalonian coast, the C-31 offers an unforgettable experience.
Days 6 and 7: Shifting into low-key mode once again, the next two days we stayed close to Sitges, enjoying costal hikes and a long-overdue morning at the gym for some swimming and lifting. Every day included—you guessed it—more glorious beach time!
Pancho led us on a fantastic hike from “new Sitges”, around the golf course, and along the rocky coastline. We explored multiple cliffside trails and beaches between Playa del los Muertos and downtown Sitges, each one more stunning than the last.
Catching up with friends in Sitges was a great start, but we had more coastline to see in a side trip with Sun and Surrealist Shenanigans in Spain’s Costa Brava.
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