December 13: A Hike to Remember
Departing Mendoza, we flew up to Bariloche to join Ramiro’s family who were anxiously awaiting our arrival. His sisters Fernanda and Tuki, their husbands Daniel and Eduardo, along with nieces and nephews, Florencia, Dario, Laura, Jose, Micaela, Max, Benicio, Lola, and Agustina.
Our first hike began at the picturesque Bahía López Beach, nestled in the stunning Parque Municipal Llao Llao in San Carlos de Bariloche. Bariloche, founded in the early 20th century by European settlers, has grown from a modest mountain town to a thriving hub of tourism, renowned for its Swiss-style architecture, skiing, outdoor adventure, and chocolate shops. The park,Parque Municipal Llao Llao, is a breathtaking natural paradise, home to lush forests, crystal-clear lakes, and majestic mountains that create a picture-perfect backdrop for outdoor adventures. Visitors can explore scenic trails, enjoy kayaking or canoeing on tranquil waters.
The trail we hiked started at the far end of the beach trail and meandered through lush forest. An earthy scent of the pine trees mingled with crisp mountain air guided us up the trail, which led up to a rocky cliffside, where we paused to take in the breathtaking views of the Andes and the shimmering Nahuel Huapi Lake, its surface glimmering like a sapphire under the cloudless sky.
December 14: From Bariloche to Traful—A Scenic Odyssey
Despite a late dinner the night before, the whole family awoke early to get a start on the day’s 12-hour road trip adventure. We set out early on the legendary Route 40, one of the longest highways in the world, stretching over 5,000 kilometers from the northern border of Argentina to the southern tip of Patagonia. Known for its stunning landscapes and challenging terrain, Route 40 runs parallel to the Andes, offering unparalleled views of snow-capped peaks, vast deserts, and glacial lakes. Skimming the shores of the vast Nahuel Huapi Lake, the drive felt like traversing a living postcard. A quick stop at an overlook above Lago Espejo in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi allowed us to soak in the serene beauty of the lake, a perfect pause before the thrill to come.
Leaving the smooth comfort of asphalt behind, we ventured onto Ruta Provincial 65, a rugged path steeped in history and adventure. This provincial route was originally carved out to connect remote mountain communities and is now a favorite for those seeking off-the-beaten-path explorations in Patagonia. Its steep climbs, sharp switchbacks, and stunning vistas make it a thrilling drive, reminiscent of a rally course. Driving along these wild and winding roads felt like channeling my inner rally car driver. The destination: the pristine shores of Traful Lake. The icy 50-degree waters, fed by snowmelt from the towering Andes, offered a bracing dip for the brave. Above the lake, we enjoyed a classic Argentine picnic with Ramiro’s family, though the steep climb to the beach kept the food—and us—safely perched in the park.
Our return journey via Ruta Provincial 63 was a testament to Patagonia’s diversity. This scenic route, known for its serene beauty and remote charm, is often dubbed a hidden gem of the region. Snow-capped peaks gave way to lush valleys, fed by the snowmelt of the Traful River. As we descended, the landscape shifted to dramatic high desert, where towering cliffs rose above verdant river-fed oases. Patagonia’s ever-changing vistas left us in awe at every turn.
Landscapes of Bariloche Region of Patagonia
December 15: Celebrations at Piedra Habsburgo
To celebrate Daniel’s birthday, we embarked on a hike to Piedra Habsburgo. This iconic rock formation, whose name nods to the Habsburg dynasty due to its resemblance to an imperial crown, is a lesser-known gem of the region. The trail rewarded us with panoramic views that seemed like a scene from a postcard, encompassing the rugged peaks of the Andes and the shimmering expanse of Nahuel Huapi Lake. A slight delay—misplacing our car—added an unexpected jog at the end, but it only added to the adventure.
After the hike, we gathered at Max and Micaela’s house for an asado, a cherished Argentine tradition. Asados are more than just meals—they are a celebration of family, friendship, and culture. The asador, or grill master, meticulously prepares seven fires in a separate grill to cultivate the perfect embers before adding them to the meat. Often, multiple grills are used to cook different types of meat, ensuring every cut is given the care it deserves. The aroma of sizzling beef and sausages filled the air as the family shared stories and laughter, embracing the time-honored tradition.
Despite the full day, everyone rallied for a late dinner in town to continue the birthday celebrations. Bariloche’s streets, adorned with Christmas lights, invited us for a midnight stroll, the festive decorations casting a warm glow over the cool night
December 16: Farewell to Bariloche
Our last day in Bariloche was spent soaking up the sun on the shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake. Spanning nearly 557 square kilometers, Nahuel Huapi Lake is the centerpiece of Argentina’s oldest national park, created in 1934. This glacial lake, formed during the last ice age, is renowned for its deep, crystal-clear waters and the surrounding jagged peaks of the Andes. Legend has it that the lake is home to “Nahuelito,” a mysterious creature akin to the Loch Ness Monster, sparking the imagination of locals and visitors alike. The crystal-clear waters and dramatic mountain backdrop made for a perfect send-off. As we prepared for the next leg of our adventure in Córdoba, we reflected on the unforgettable experiences that made this Patagonian escapade so special.
Bariloche, with its blend of rugged landscapes, warm hospitality, and thrilling adventures, truly captured our hearts. Until next time, Patagonia!
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