Exploring the Surroundings
After departing Bariloche, our next adventure took us to the mystical town of Capilla del Monte, located an hour northwest of Cordoba. Here, we were warmly greeted by our lively family: matriarch Marita, sisters Xuany, Sofia, and Lupe, and nieces and nephews Paloma, Maxi, Manu, and Antonio. Joining this delightful family mix were Adrian, Leo, Sol, Marcelo, baby Sara, and Laura, who kept us fed, entertained, and created a festive atmosphere that would soon mark the beginning of a new holiday tradition: “Fake Christmas.”
Nestled in the Punilla Valley, Capilla del Monte is a place where history and mystery intertwine. Founded in 1585 by a woman, Lucía González Jaimes, the town’s first chapel opened in 1719 and gifted Capilla del Monte its name “Chapel on the Hill.” However, Capilla del Monte’s fame has expanded far beyond its historical roots. It is considered Argentina’s answer to Roswell, as UFO lore has become deeply embedded in the town’s identity. The infamous 1986 Huella del Pajarillo incident continues to fuel local myths and legends, drawing both believers in the paranormal and nature lovers alike. The town offers a unique eclectic atmosphere, where hikers, horseback riders, yoga enthusiasts, backpackers, and curious visitors come together, drawn to Capilla del Monte’s captivating landscape and esoteric appeal.
Capilla del Monte is a gateway to the Punilla Valley and the surrounding Sierras de Córdoba mountains. Its natural beauty and wealth of outdoor activities attract those seeking adventure and relaxation. The towering Cerro Uritorco (6,394 feet) is one of the area’s most renowned peaks, known for its mysterious energy and stunning views. In addition to Cerro Uritorco, the area is full of treasures that offer exciting excursions for outdoor lovers. Must-visit sites include Agua de los Palos, Los Terrones, and Dique El Cajon where you can hike, horseback ride, kayak, paraglide, and swim in icy, spring-fed pools.
Two nearby towns—La Cumbre and San Marcos Sierra—add depth and variety to any visit to the region. La Cumbre, with its lush gardens, historic golf club, and boutique shopping, offers an elegant contrast to Capilla’s mystique. On the other hand, San Marcos Sierra’s charming “old west” vibe invites visitors to wander its cobblestone streets, relax in the town square, and experience its laid-back energy. Horses tied to posts outnumber parked cars in this rural hamlet, making it feel like a step back in time.
Family Feasts and Siestas
We arrived during Capilla’s siesta hours, which meant no sightseeing that day. Instead, we spent the afternoon at home, enjoying Marita’s signature dishes—ojo de bife with hand-cut pan-seared potatoes. For the next several days, we were treated to more of Ramiro’s favorites: empanadas, milanesas, and many more hearty and delicious meals.
The following morning was marked by unexpected rain, a rare event in the high desert. I took full advantage, relaxing in our cozy, mountainside cabana, enjoying the stunning views of Cerro Uritorco from every room.
Hiking Cerro Las Gemelas
This was our third time hiking Cerro Las Gemelas, or “The Twins,” and it’s become a favorite for good reason. Climbing to the 5,561 foot peak via a 4-hour round trip hike offers accessible yet rewarding adventure. Starting from Agua de los Palos recreational complex, the trail showcases the unique dry forests and rare flora of the Sierras de Córdoba.
Mythology surrounding Cerro Las Gemelas is closely tied to its name, “The Twins,” referring to the pair of mountain peaks that appear almost identical from many vantage points. Local legend suggests the peaks represent two sisters who were transformed into mountains by their mother, Uritorco. The peaks are believed to radiate a unique energy, the sisters now serving as protectors of Capilla del Monte.
Cerro Las Gemelas is part of the Sierras Pampeanas mountains, formed 541 million years ago. Much older than the Andes, this ancient range stands inexplicably green and tall in a landscape otherwise defined by high desert flatlands. The Sierras’ sweeping views, pristine, unspoiled environment, and otherworldly presence attract over 3 million visitors annually.
As always, we were prepared with plenty of water and bathing suits, as the hot and dusty hike requires hydration, while the cool, mineral-rich swimming pool at Agua de los Palos offers the perfect way to refresh afterward. A café overlooking the mountainside and Capilla del Monte in the distance provides the perfect place to refuel with delicious food and locally crafted beer.
Previous Visits
On previous trips, we tackled Cerro Uritorco’s main hike, an 8- to 10-hour commitment requiring a level of preparedness we couldn’t manage this time. The experience, however, remains vivid: a challenging ascent through varied terrain that offers breathtaking views and a sense of achievement at the summit. Another highlight was Los Terrones, a private natural reserve that is one of the main attractions in Capilla del Monte. The red canyons, reminiscent of Sedona, provide the perfect backdrop—and shade—for an afternoon hike in the desert climate. Guided tours here blend the region’s stunning natural beauty with fascinating history, making it a fun destination.
Cerro Uritorco and Camino a Los Terrones
Kayaking Dique El Cajón
The serenity of Dique El Cajón’s waters make for a perfect day of kayaking. This tranquil lake, surrounded by breathtaking mountain views, provided an ideal escape as we paddled with Xuany, Manu, Leo, Sofia, and Paloma. The calm waters, paired with the stunning mountainous backdrop, created a peaceful and restorative experience. Taking in the tranquility and natural beauty of the area was the perfect way to enjoy the summer sunshine.
We rented the kayaks from Punto Faro, a local business offering not only watercraft rentals but also a swimming pool, beach volleyball, and a restaurant serving drinks and snacks, all of which we enjoyed. After kayaking, we unwound by the lake’s shores, basking in the natural beauty of the area, enjoying snacks and cocktails.
Hiking La Toma
On our final day, we ventured on the trail that leads to Dique Los Alazanes. The hike is known for its winding streams, cascading waterfalls, and cool shade provided by lush, spring-fed greenery. While moderately challenging, the trek includes dense vegetation, multiple river crossings, and some boulder climbing, all rewarded with breathtaking views of Cerro Uritorco. We didn’t make it all the way to the dique—”dam”—only to the third olla. Ollas are the water pools that form at the base of each waterfall, tempting hot hikers with a quick swim in the icy mountain stream.
As a quirky touch, the park entrance is marked by a model alien spaceship (tractor beam sold separately via photoshop) and is perfect for photo ops. Naturally, we couldn’t resist staging our own abduction scene—arms outstretched, faces lit wonder, being abducted by the mothership. Perfect way to capture Capilla del Monte’s playful UFO lore.
“Fake Christmas”
Later that evening, we celebrated “Fake Christmas” at Sofia and Paloma’s hilltop home with stunning views of Cerro Uritorco. In Argentina, Christmas is typically celebrated at midnight on December 24th, but since we were flying back to the U.S. before Christmas Eve, we decided to mark the occasion early. All of our family and friends were there, filling the house with laughter and warmth, making it a truly special gathering.
Everyone worked together to prepare a traditional Argentinian Christmas dinner. The menu was elaborate, featuring traditional Argentinian dishes lechón al horno, vitel toné, matambre a la pizza, pionono de jamón y queso, ensalada Waldorf, ensalada de palmitos with jamón y queso, and a classic ensalada caprese.
As the night unfolded, a fierce storm knocked out the power, but a fully charged karaoke machine saved the day. Our voices echoed through the valley under the rumble of thunder, transforming the blackout into a magical, unforgettable moment. Serenading the darkened neighborhood, we created a memory we’ll always cherish.
Reflections
Capilla del Monte is a destination that defies easy categorization. Its blend of history, mysticism, and natural beauty makes it a place unlike any other. Whether hiking to the summits of Cerro Uritorco or simply taking in the valley’s serenity, the town offers a unique adventure at every turn. It’s a place that invites reflection, wonder, and a sense of connection to the mysteries of both nature and the universe.
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